Plus Moschino delivers a Disney-inspired collection and the Hadids walk a Y2K runway at Versace.
It’s good to be back in Italy. The temperature is warmer. The air smells tastier. And the fashion somehow feels posher.
After the experimental explosion that was London, it’s nice to return to some not-so-basic basics. As seen in the previous two fashion weeks, boudoir dressing and exquisite tailoring continue to trend, with many designers opting out of the serotonin-boosting brights of the spring and into a more subdued palette for fall. But unlike the other cities, the Italian talents who presented at Milan Fashion Week put a strong emphasis on wearability. Excluding the life-sized lamp and nesting doll-like puffers seen at the more out-there luxury labels (read: Moschino and Dolce & Gabbana), textural and transitional garments appeared effortless, despite the hours and sweat that have gone into them.
But the real story was off the runway, as Rihanna (along with other celebs) made an appearance at Gucci. Rocking an ensemble that can only be described as eclectic along with her pregnancy glow, she was joined by boyfriend and father-to-be A$AP Rocky in a move that further cements them as 2022’s ultimate power couple— sorry, Tom and Zendaya!
If you’re looking to elevate your everyday look, or even just to get your daily Riri fix, below is our roundup of Milan Fashion Week Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear.
Bottega Veneta: New designer, who dis?
After creative director Daniel Lee’s abrupt exit from Bottega Veneta in 2020 left the brand and fans buzzing with questions, newcomer Matthieu Blazy’s first collection had all the answers in the form of an exquisitely tailored and undeniably cool Fall 2022 show. Inspired by motion and moving forward, Blazy’s designs had the rare quality of looking effortlessly wearable. While this achievement seems simple in theory, in actuality, only the most talented in the community can make hours of painstaking effort look easy. Case in point: this tank top and jeans are actually made entirely out of leather
Diesel: There are giant women on the runway
Don’t adjust your screens — that is the torso of a giant inflatable woman on the Diesel runway. Why? Perhaps the better question is why not. As a brand that in its heyday drove pop culture, creative director Glenn Martens is eager to return to the days of the Diesel dynasty by doing what the label does best: making the ordinary extraordinary. Proportions were playful, basic silhouettes were upgraded, and everyday fabrics like denim were the stars of the Fall 2022 ready-to-wear show.
Dolce & Gabbana: Who wants wearable fashion anyways?
Dolce & Gabbana have never been known for their minimalism, but the luxury house’s Fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection seemed extreme, even for them. While the first few moments on the runway started in simplicity, it only took until look six for the brand’s foray into a fashion funhouse to commence. Shoulders the size of boulders were paired with sheer lingerie styles. An egg-shaped puffer jacket conjured images of weird Russian nesting dolls. And yeti-couture seemed to encourage Muppet references. So if you prefer your fashion with more fantasy, take note.
Fendi: Day-to-night dressing perfected
There was a period in fashion journalism where phrases like “day-to-night” peppered every glossy magazine. This seemed to promise that if you could master the “work hard, play hard” fashion mentality, all your wardrobe woes would be gone forever. While the phrase has (for the most part) gone into retirement, Fendi’s Fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection is perhaps the perfect answer to the age-old conundrum. Inspired by the brand’s 1986 collection by Karl Lagerfeld, the show was unapologetically feminine and presented styles that could shine no matter the hour. Pastel colours, frilly accents and waist-defining details were used in both boudoir dresses and modern suiting, making it a must-have for any working girl (although, it might be best to save this sheer style for later in the evening).
Gucci: Rihanna can do no wrong
Gucci has become known for its A-list audience, and this season was no different. The star-studded front row featured Serena Williams, Jared Leto, Daisy Edgar-Jones, Chiara Ferragni and many others. But, it wasn’t until Rihanna, and A$AP Rocky appeared that the internet truly lost its mind. Proudly presenting her baby bump, the singer wore a latex and lace crop top with a pair of dragon-encrusted black trousers, a purple fur jacket and a mirror-embellished chainmail headpiece. When the awe of Rihanna finally wore off, the attendees watched the Gucci Fall 2022 lineup, which turned out to be a winning collaboration with Adidas.
Moschino: A tale as old as time
We dare you to watch Moschino’s Fall 2022 ready-to-wear show and not start humming “Beauty and the Beast.” Although creative director Jeremy Scott didn’t explicitly cite the Disney classic as his inspiration but “furniture you’d find in a mansion,” they’re essentially the same thing, minus the prince-turned-mythical-creature. Models brought inanimate objects to life as garments resembling clocks, harps, lamps and couches descended the bedroom-like stage. If that’s not enough proof to convince you, there was even a candlestick headpiece, giving off all the sass of sidekick Lumiere.
Prada: The world’s most expensive white tank top
If we were to make bets on the next trending item on TikTok, we would place our chips on this Prada tank top. After the brand’s bucket hat became a must-have among content creators, social media and the luxury label are hungry for the next big thing. While paying top dollar for something as simple as a tank top seems downright absurd, the collection itself played into the idea of unlikely combinations. Think soft and hard materials, flowy and structured silhouettes, and cold and warm styles.
Versace: All hail the Hadids
Both Hadid sisters had a busy schedule during Milan Fashion Week, but at Versace’s Fall 2022 ready-to-wear presentation, they looked truly at home. After appearing together in the brand’s Spring 2022 campaign, there was little doubt that they wouldn’t be in attendance, but it was a joy nonetheless to see them strutting on the catwalk. Donatella Versace continued her Y2K streak with an assortment of mini corset dresses, low waisted wares and bold colours. As with anything inspired by the 2000s, the collection became an instant hit on Instagram.